Watering fruit trees correctly is the key to strong roots, healthy growth, and a great harvest—but it’s easy to overdo or neglect. Too much or too little water can lead to stress, disease, and poor fruit production. Keep reading to learn how, when, and why to water, including common mistakes to avoid to keep your fruit trees healthy and productive.
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When I first started growing fruit trees, I admittedly didn’t think too much about how to water them properly. Isn’t rainfall enough? Maybe the occasional soaking with a hose? It wasn’t until I saw my apricot tree struggling through an extended drought that I realized perhaps there was more I needed to learn.
Watering fruit trees isn’t about following a rigid schedule. It’s about understanding your tree’s needs, the soil, the season, and how water interacts with the roots. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the most important dos and don’ts of watering fruit trees, so you can avoid the mistakes I made and give your trees the best care possible.
The Dos: How to Water Fruit Trees
The answer to "How do you water fruit trees?" is a resounding: It depends. The correct watering schedule can be affected by the tree's size and age, the type of soil you have, the climate, what type of fruit tree it is, and of course, rainfall. Begin with these watering Dos to determine the right way to quench your fruit tree's thirst.
DO Water Deeply and Less Frequently
One of the biggest mistakes I made early on was watering often but too shallowly. A few minutes of dousing with the hose or sprinklers isn't enough to keep tree roots hydrated. Frequent light watering encourages weak, shallow roots that can’t support the tree in dry weather.
The right approach? Deep watering. This means soaking the soil down to at least 12-18 inches, where the roots can access it. Depending on the age of the tree and the climate, this might mean watering once or twice a week rather than daily.
To water slowly and deeply, set a hose on a trickle. Position the hose near the water line of the tree (close to the edge of the canopy) where there are more of the feeder roots that absorb water and nutrients of the soil. Allow the hose to drip slowly for at least 20 minutes (depending on soil type, weather, tree size, etc.), then move the hose to another spot around the tree. Continue 2 or 3 times until the entire root zone is watered.
With young trees, I like to use watering bags like these, which have drip emitters in the bottom that release water over about 8 hours. As a DIY alternative, drill several small holes in the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket (or a few), fill with water, and place near the drip line of the tree to empty slowly and soak into the soil.
DO Check Soil Moisture Before Watering
Overwatering can be just as dangerous as underwatering, and the only way to know what your tree needs is to check the soil. I use the finger test—simply dig about two inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still moist, hold off for a day or two.
Alternatively, you can use a moisture meter (I use this one) for a more precise reading, especially if you’re dealing with heavier or sandy soils that can be deceptive.
DO Water in the Morning
Avoid watering fruit trees in the evening because damp conditions overnight create the perfect environment for fungal diseases. And irrigating during the middle of the day wastes water, as much of it will evaporate in the warmer temperatures rather than soaking into the soil.
Watering in the morning allows the tree to absorb the moisture it needs while giving excess water time to evaporate before nightfall from leaves and branches. This helps prevent issues like powdery mildew or root rot.
DO Use Mulch to Retain Moisture
Mulching is one of the best things you can use to conserve water and ensure even soil moisture. Applying a 3-4 inch layer of mulch around the base of your tree helps retain moisture, regulates soil temperature, and prevents weeds from competing for water. Just make sure to keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk to prevent rot and pests.
I typically use an aged pine bark mulch around my fruit trees, which also benefits the soil as it breaks down. You can use wood chips, leaves, pine needles, or other organic material.
DO Adjust Watering Based on Season and Climate
Watering needs aren’t the same year-round. In the heat of summer, fruit trees lose more moisture through their leaves (they "sweat" just like we do) and need more frequent watering. But in cooler months, especially when trees are dormant, they require much less water. However, even in the winter, fruit trees may need to be watered during an extended dry spell.
Take into account the rainfall throughout the year. In my climate (zone 8b), I typically don't need to water at all during the wet months of winter and spring. But come summer, the temperatures rise quickly and rain showers are few and far between, so watering becomes my job again.
The Don'ts: Common Watering Mistakes
Some of these errors may seem small, but can cause huge problems for fruit trees. Continue reading to learn what not to do, followed by some quick watering tips that will help your trees thrive.
DON'T Water the Leaves
Spraying water over the entire tree might seem like a good idea, but wet leaves are a breeding ground for fungal infections. Sometimes this happens because Mother Nature decides excessive rain is necessary - as I learned the hard way when my peach trees developed bacterial spot a few years ago. But using a sprinkler or spraying a hose can cause the same problem. As moisture sits on the leaves, disease pathogens thrive.
This is one of the reasons sprinklers are a poor choice for watering fruit trees. Not only do they spray the leaves, but they waste water through evaporation and don't allow the water to penetrate to the root system.
Instead, place irrigation at the base of the tree so it goes straight to the roots where it’s needed. Drip irrigation is a great solution. It delivers water directly to the root zone with minimal waste and allows for slow, deep absorption.
DON'T Ignore Drainage
One of the quickest ways to kill a fruit tree is by forgetting about soil drainage. Good drainage means that the soil has enough tiny air pockets for water and air to flow through. If your soil doesn’t drain well, water can accumulate around the roots and suffocate them or cause root rot.
Learn more about how to address soil drainage for fruit trees here: Soil Drainage for Fruit Trees: Everything you need to know. Read that post to learn how to check your soil drainage and what to do to adjust it. But the basic concepts to fix soil drainage are:
- Add organic matter such as compost to loosen heavy clay soil.
- Create a slight mound when planting trees in poorly draining areas.
- Install drainage channels if water tends to collect in your yard.
DON'T Overwater
An overwatered fruit tree will develop yellowing leaves, start to wilt, and will eventually drop its leaves and die. The main cause for overwatering (at least for fruit trees planted in the ground) is actually poor soil drainage, so always address that first. But if you notice these signs, stop watering, improve drainage as necessary, and allow the soil to dry out before watering again.
Similarly, potted fruit trees like well draining soil that stays moist, but not soggy. If you suspect you've overwatered a potted tree, remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. Cut away any rotten or soft roots, then repot the tree in fresh potting mix.
Related: Is Your Citrus Tree Overwatered or Underwatered?
DON'T Forget to Adjust for Young vs. Mature Trees
Young trees have smaller root systems and dry out much faster than mature trees, meaning they need more frequent watering. When I first planted an apricot tree, I made the mistake of watering it too infrequently for the hot summer weather. As a result, the tree struggled throughout the summer and almost completely died back. Luckily, I caught the mistake and began watering more often and more deeply - and now the tree is 25 feet tall!
A good rule of thumb for how much to water:
- Young trees: Water deeply 2-3 times a week for the first couple of months, then every 7-10 days for the first year (depending on rainfall).
- Mature trees: Water deeply once every week or two, or less, depending on climate, soil conditions, and rainfall.
DON'T Assume All Fruit Trees Have the Same Watering Needs
In addition to tree size and age, the type of fruit tree affects how much you need to water. Different fruit trees can have vastly different watering needs.
For example, fig and apricot trees like the soil to dry out a bit between waterings, so you can get away with less frequent irrigation. Pomegranate trees are drought tolerant, but they need consistent moisture otherwise they'll drop their fruit (as is true for many other fruits). Mulberry trees and pear trees (among others) can tolerate wetter soils and may need more frequent watering.
My Watering Tips for Thriving Fruit Trees
Over the years, I’ve refined my watering routine to keep my fruit trees healthy with minimal effort. Here’s what works for me:
- Spring: Deep watering about once every 7-10 days, with extra care for young trees. Rainfall is often enough on its own.
- Summer: Increase watering frequency as rain slows and temperatures climb. Water deeply once or twice a week (depending on weather).
- Fall: Gradual reduction in watering as trees prepare for dormancy. Milder weather means less watering.
- Winter: Minimal or no watering for dormant trees, unless there’s an unusually dry spell.
- ALWAYS: Checking soil moisture before watering and using mulch to retain moisture.
If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that watering isn’t a one-size-fits-all process. Each tree, climate, and soil type is different, and it takes time to find the perfect balance.
If you’re new to growing fruit trees, don’t worry about getting it perfect right away. Keep an eye on your trees, learn from your mistakes, and adjust as needed. They’re more resilient than we think, but a little extra care goes a long way.
The post The Dos and Don’ts of Watering Fruit Trees appeared first on The Fruit Grove.
